Barot Valley Retreat

A 2.5-hour drive from Mandi into the Uhl River valley, the road narrowing as it climbs into the pine forest. Barot appears at the valley floor, a cluster of houses beside the river, with the old British hydro dam standing quietly upstream. Your Ettiq guide checks the group into a riverside guesthouse. Evening by the Uhl, a walk to the riverbank, the sound of water over stones, the first deep breath of a decompression trip. Dinner at the guesthouse, trout if the catch was good.

Morning walk into the Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary, a forest of deodar and oak where Himalayan black bears and monal pheasants live. The trail follows a stream uphill for two hours before opening onto a ridge with views of the Dhauladhar range. Afternoon by the Uhl River. Fishing if you want, swimming if you're brave, or just sitting on a river stone reading a book. The guesthouse deck overlooking the water is the best spot in the valley.

A full day hike to Shikari Devi temple at 3,359m, the highest point in the region. The trail climbs through forest, then alpine meadow, to a small temple dedicated to the goddess of hunters. The panoramic views of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges are worth every step of the 16-kilometre round trip. Packed lunch at the summit. Return to Barot by evening, tired in the way that feels earned.

A slow morning by the Uhl, one last walk through the pine forest, the river at its clearest in the early light. Drive back to Mandi, the valley receding in the rearview mirror. The trip ends, but the quiet of Barot stays longer than you expect.